A Penne For Your Thoughts: In Conversation With Emilie Pullar Of Burnt Butter Table

When a pasta-obsessed home cook meets one of Auckland’s most fabulous restaurants, something delicious is bound to happen. For one night only during Heart of the City’s Auckland Restaurant Month, Esther is welcoming Emilie Pullar — the flour-dusted force behind The Burnt Butter Table — into the kitchen for a pasta celebration like no other with our very own Chef Sean Connolly. 

With every course featuring hand-rolled creations (yes, even dessert), the event is serving up pillowy ravioli, perfectly clingy sauces, curated wine pairings, and a few hands-on moments that bring the pasta passion to life. Think: dinner party meets pasta masterclass, amidst an abundance of laughter and libations. 

Emilie’s journey from fashion entrepreneur to a full-blown pasta empire is as heart-warming as her cacio e pepe. Her cult-followed blog created during Covid times has gained hundreds of thousands of readers and has become the go-to for saucy tips, silky doughs and recipes that turn everyday cook’s into pasta pros.  

We sat down with Emilie to talk all things pasta: from her favourite shapes and controversial pasta opinions (sorry penne) to culinary disasters, dinner party dreams, and her next big venture. 

So pour yourself an Italian red, settle in, and welcome to Emilie’s world. 

1. For those who aren’t familiar—what is The Burnt Butter Table all about?

Burnt Butter Table is a bit of a cliche lockdown story. I was running a fashion brand and we pretty much had to completely stall during lockdown. It was the first time in over 10 years of running that business that I had a lot of spare time on my hands. Some turned to sourdough, I turned to pasta! I started an Instagram so I wouldn’t annoy all my friends with countless pasta pics on my personal page. It grew quite quickly and I have recently turned it into a full time career with my website where I share all my recipes. 

2. What is your favourite pasta shape of all time? What about your least favourite?

Orecchiette is my favourite shape to make and to eat. It means ‘little ears’ in Italian but to me they look like little bowls and pasta sauces just sit in them so perfectly. My least favourite is penne, I just hate it so much and I can’t even really articulate why! Poor penne.

3. What’s your all-time favourite pasta dish to make or to eat?

My death row dish is cacio e pepe with a hand rolled pici pasta. It’s a true flavour bomb and never disappoints.

4. Ever had a total pasta disaster? Tell us what happened.

There is one shape I am really yet to master (I’m sure there’s lots of others too!) called Culurgiones. It’s a stuffed pasta with the most intricate folding along the top. I need to put some time into practicing as they have been true disasters so far.

5. We love to make your recipes but what’s one dish you’d love to learn how to make?

I really want to master making a soufflé! Sweet or savoury.

6. What’s your all-time favourite cocktail or wine?

When I go to any cocktail bar I always ask for something tequila or mezcal based with citrus. I love seeing what different bartenders come up with. I do love a dirty gin martini or a negroni. For wine? An Italian red please!

 

Tips & Tricks

7. What’s your number one tip for perfect pasta dough every time?

Simple! Weigh your eggs. The age old Italian method is 400 grams flour and 4 eggs. That’s in the ball park but eggs vary in weight so much! I like to weigh them so I know my dough will be perfectly hydrated every time.

8. Any pasta tools you swear by—or do you keep it simple?

I think a pasta roller is a must. You can roll out egg pasta sheets by hand but it’s really difficult. Also a gnocchi board is so inexpensive and a really handy tool.

9. Do you prefer making pasta by hand or with a machine?

My favourite pasta to make at home are hand rolled shapes. They are generally made with a flour and water dough and I find it so relaxing just standing at the bench, using my hands. It’s full meditation for me.

10. What’s the secret to silky, glossy sauce that actually clings to the pasta?

My biggest pet peeve (and full blown pasta crime in my books) is when people serve naked pasta with a sauce on top. You need to let your pasta and sauce mix and bubble away on the stove top for a good 2 – 3 mins so that the sauce has a chance to flavour and cling to the pasta. You can undercook your pasta by a minute do it doesn’t overcook. You also want to use a good splash of pasta water in the sauce too.

11. Can you describe your dream dinner party—who’s there, what’s on the table, what’s on the menu and what music is playing?

I. Love. Hosting. It’s my absolute favourite thing. I love decorating a table with colour, patterns, candles and fun glassware. A group of close friends, lots of wine and pasta of course. I always love to start a menu with a fish crudo, it’s fresh and light as a starter. Pasta with some kind of rich ragu, some vegetable sides and then something delicious for dessert. To be super dramatic some Italian opera in the background which may or not merge into some 90’s classics by the end of the night.

12. What’s next for you after Auckland Restaurant Month—can we expect more delicious collaborations or content? 

I am working on a really big project at the moment. An online pasta school where people can learn how to make pasta at home. I love teaching and this is a way to get to the masses rather than hold individual classes. I hope to launch the school in October or November so watch this space!